Bustledress.com, TIPS, Victorian Antique dress, Bustle Dresses, Antique Dress, Vintage clothing, Corsets

That's an important question, but the freedom of choiceis entirely up to you... For those that do, here are practical wearing, fitting and caring tips for vintage antique clothing wearers. There's important display and storing tips for those who choose not to.

Getting married soon and want to wear that strong, but gorgeous Victorian bustle dress or 1912 Edwardian wedding gown with the matching corset and that Titanic style rose laden Edwardian Gainsbourough hat? There's some things you should keep in mind first...

It could be possible, if you carefully consider the event, and take as many precautions against as much future damage as possible. However, fragile Victorian or Edwardian items or pre Civil War (1860's or earlier) or delicate and fabric weakened items I recommend to avoid wearing entirely, due to the rarity and scarcity of such items.

In my opinion, strong Victorian and Edwardian cottons, linens, wools and velvets are the best early investments for antique dress or vintage clothing wearers. I recommend saving the beautiful, but delicate silks for a very gentle special event, or to skip wearing altogether. A terrific Victorian or Edwardian reproduction can be more appropriate and even better for a active reenactment like a Civil War reenactment, a busy "Somewhere in time" weekend or a Gibson Girl ice cream social.

Most people don't realize weddings actually require pretty sturdy dresses. Even costumed weddings. You'll be hugging, pulled, and danced with and posed in artifical poses for photographs where someone might step on the train or chafe age weakened seams. Add in the risks of eating, champagne, flying cake and the macerana...(so if you decide to wear an antique or your grandmother's vintage dress during the ceremony, you might want to consider changing later into stronger clothing, possibly a Victorian or Edwardian styled reproduction for the reception. You can contact Margaret for more details.) mudman@inreach.com

At a Civil War reenactment or Renaissance fair you'll become hot and soiled, (they usually run in Indian summer or rainy or snowy winters), so you'll be likely perspiring in the kicked up dust and dirt, and eating exotic faire and mead, not to mention many rigorous activities like fencing and Scottish dancing so sturdy materials are paramount. The Victorian Civil War era Dicken's faire runs in the winter near Christmas, so the weather can be poor weather outside, like rain or even snow as you walk into the event often with a bark or rush strewn floor. Even an event like this has many active events, like Victorian ballroom dancing or games and due to the many people attending you may find your skirt has spills and your hem has been heavily soiled.

A Victorian tea with an air conditioned setting might be able to accomodate a slightly more delicate Vintage or antique gown, but will there be young children there with jelly sandwiches? Hotter or humid days you may not want to wear a heavy worsted wool, or silk velvet antique dress. For spring and summer, you may want to choose something airy and breathable like natural fibers as most cottons, lawn, batiste, or woven linens can be gently soaked unless there are colored laces, colored silk edgings or glass pearls. The item in question should always be tested on an inconspicuous area before attempting to clean yourself and left to dry fully and examined before proceeding further. Silks and silk taffetas are beautiful, but unless unusually sturdy, I discourage wearing them. The best bet is to bring the item to a professional for opinions or cleaning.

Sturdy wools and sateen cottons are warmer in colder winter, with brocades and velvets on cooler nights (unless indoors where it could become very warm-, like a Victorian ball with ballroom dancing.) Also, don't wear your velvet in the rain. Pre 1930's dyes will probably run and the velvet will spot and clump, becoming a mess that can't be brushed or steamed out).

Is smoking going to be at the event? If so, then the item will have to be well aired, or professionally cleaned before storing. Most silks have a hard time with the abuse of repeated cleaning and is not recommended. Most silk taffeta (except unsalted older taffetas of the 1880's bustle dresses and older and acetate 1940's- 1950's taffetas.) are too delicate for dry cleaning, so keep that in mind. Contact a good cleaner or an excellent textile conservator who often deals with antique vintage clothing for best results.

An item can still be charming with a few character marks, but assume ALL stains unremovable. Also assume that anything you buy with age will have a few flaws; it's the charm and also the nature of antique vintage clothing.

For ironing, press with an iron without steam using a fine cloth, such as a large batiste napkin, or use a professional steamer. Don't use the steamer too closely to the fabric so it dosen't spot in case water condensation builds up (and ALWAYS use distilled water so the steamer dosen't clog and spit water). Steaming's especially effective with velvet that's crushed (steam on the wrong side of the pile- right side can flatten pile) and use a another piece of velvet or brush to softly raise the pile.

Wearing and Fitting:

Limit skin touching any antique vintage clothing article to avoid skin oil, makeup, lotions, antiperspirants and perspiration which can significantly weaken your fabric. Carefully baste underarm guards inside seam edges and carefully clean or brush the armpit area afterwards, or if it's absolutely necessary, take it to a professional cleaner if it's sturdy. Underarm guards are always a must, as is repeated powdering! Un-fragranced cornstarch baby powder or add that mixture to rice powder and layer over antiperspirant to help avoid watery perspiration marks since most Victorian clothing is fairly form fitting and can become warm over time. Perspiration is one of the worst enemies of vintage or antique clothing.

Proper fitting of a garment is imperative! Please don't attempt to squeeze into old antique clothing and strain seams. Check your measurements carefully first and alow at least extra 1/2" for ease of movement in not more. Have a friend carefully measure you, since an estimated size 8 from 1880 and 2002 are NOT the same, like a woman who is a 36A and a woman who is a 32D, although the measurements are the same, the fitting around the bust and back won't be. It's important to wear the undergarments you'll be wearing underneath (like a proper chemise, corset, corset covers and petticoats) while measuring. You may find your overall body measurements might have increased over an inch or more. Then add the extra 1/2" for ease of movement. Measure with the shoes you'll be wearing and you should have a comfortable fit.Please view my Measurements.page

Always have someone assist you getting in and out of elaborate Victorian dresses or Edwardian gowns. Keep in mind, ladies in days gone by had maids. Getting antique items on is always easier, but you have to be careful when removing them, because they tend to catch on the pins in your hair, bustles, corset strings and flounced Victorian petticoats. Also, be careful to not step on dress ruffles, lace or hems when stepping out of your skirts. Make sure hooks aren't catching on lace.

As an added precaution, I also highly suggest stabilizing ALL buttons and snaps before wearing or placing on a mannequin with a heavy cotton thread (no polyester thread). Quilters or carpet thread this acceptable or use 100% silk fly-tying threadwhich is unbelievably strong for how ultra-fine it is. Any weak trims or looseseams should be immediantly stabilized and mended, possibly backed before wearing or for fashion shows.I also suggest making a fine, handkerchief fabric inner liner (possibly removable) to your measurements the item is to be wornto protect delicate dress innards. If you haven't worn the dress yet, or in a while; deicately sit down in the dress before the event and make sure the fabric and thread in the seams aren't stressed or becoming weak.

Have someone else drive to your period event whenever possible. Be careful getting in and out of the vehicle, watching for catching items like weak jet beaded tassels and silk chiffon ruched trains. Place a smooth or silky fabric underneath you on the seat so there's no "rubbing" friction against roughseat fibers. Try not to straighten and adjust skirts as you slide inside and out. Adjusting causes stress. If you're planning to eat while wearing your frock, consider wearing a bib, or add extra napkins or an apron. Even though it won't look so dainty, using two napkins (one at the neck) can save your dress. One drop of spaghetti sauce or salad oil down the center can ruin a dainty silk frock. It is better to use common sense and precautions.

Storage and Display:

Do needed repairs and any cleaning promptly, so problems do not increase over time. Please do not use iron-on tape or glues (it usually seeps through vintage fabrics and the fabric won't drape correctly anyway). I suggest using natural fiber thread repair such as cotton or silk for mending, or better yet, use a piece of thread taken from the item from an area that won't make a difference to the garment (like seam edges).

Do not place clothing inside: plastic bags, plastic storage bins (both give off fumes and acids that can eventually leach out and eventually wreck vintage garments or add off smells) or cardboard boxes, unless they're made of buffered acid free. (I was personally told by a conservator to also avoid acid free tissue also if possible, they still have some woody acids that can create brown spots...) Do not put on hangers for any length of time, even padded hangers. The weight stress makes the shoulders tear out.

The absolutely best way to store items is inside clean white cotton sheets (without using perfumed soaps, chlorine bleachor dryer sheets added to washing and drying) or soft, fine-weight, unbleached muslin. Try cutting strips and wrapping so that stiff or rough areas do not rub against themselves and cause added friction wear over time. Lining dresser drawers or cedar chests with fabric and then wrapping your item is a good idea as long as the wood acids don't come into contact with antique dress fabric. Also, store items away from water heaters which can lose seals and drench boxes. Air circulation's good for garments. Gently refold the item at least once a month so creases don't become permanent (I know this one from experience!). Hang garments on heavily padded white velvet hangers as seldom as possible because of gravity stressing shoulders (especially 1920's items, which I preferto roll loosely in soft, cleaned sheets, folded loosely and carefully as not to make creases). Also avoid cold, wet basements which can cause mildew and may have mice, silverfish, or moths.

For vintage dress forms displayed in houses or boxed displays (like vintage or antique fans) on walls, make sure the sun's not ever touching the garment or (purse or fan) at all. Avoid setting the item next to heaters (so it will not get dry rot.) dusty open windows, damp basements or hot, dry or humid attics. Occasionally brush the item with a scrap of silky velvet to remove the dust- which is drying and attracts dryness to fabric fibers. Also make sure no metal on vintage mannequins or sharp edges are pulling at shoulders. I suggest using proper undergarments, supports like bustles and crinolines and padding shoulders with soft cotton sheeting to help relieve pressure. Antique garments are made to be supported and to not use any can weaken shoulders, seams at the waist and trains. Stuff Victorian boots or Edwardian shoes with cotton, clean wool or soft fabric (like sheeting), then fabric wrap them and place in a gorgeous vintage hatbox. Use hatboxes when appropriate (this works great with storing some antique dresses too.) works especially well with large Edwardian hats. Stuff each crown with soft sheeting. You can also place your vintage dress in a cedar closet with lavender fragranced mothballs and lavender and cedar sachets, but don't place these too close to the vintage or antique clothing, or the item will pick up the smell.

I hope these tips have been helpful!

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