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|item number #SOLD0005-20090207-43 |
MAGNIFICENT Edwardian 1912 CHANTILLY Chenille and BEAD Evening Gown
I have to gush about this is a breathtakingly magnificent, 1912 lavish formal evening "A"-list gown. You RARELY seen one as drool-worthy as this one anymore! My husband sized the gown up best with an approving thumbs up and a: "La wow!" (Grin) This gorgeous quality gown displays virtually every bell and whistle known to the masterful Edwardian gown maker... I'm certain it must have been couture at the time, although there's no petersham (appears there never was.). The style is the May Manton style blousen top, with full, dolman over sleeves edged in black silk satin ribbon natural waist. The maker used multiple fine fabric layers to create a substantival dress form foundation, fully boning the bodice, running a long bone down the skirt lining center back, so the triple bustling of the Chantilly Lace would bend and stand out, making the demi-train fishtail as the wearer walked- with underneath silk satin ties to even make the rear bustle more pronounced- This is hot! This grand, classically elegant style is a direct ancestor heading toward the 1914 hobble skirt shape- a fashion trend in a few years from then. It's also a very decent size 8-10, with full bust! (My poor, flat-chested mannequin required a little, eh, "enhancement" so the gown wouldn't sag. LOL)
The outer fabric shell is made of a refined, midnight-black Chantilly Lace in an ornate design of miniature flowers of oblong medallions. Much of the outer shell was appliqueed' into strips, so it overlaps like "stripes." Under that is layers, the bodice having areas of cyan, sky blue silk satin on the front and rear center panels. There's salmon pink silk satin UNDER black silk gossamer sheer, overlapping under a cream silk gossamer sheers, so areas of blue and salmon pink blush through (this is an ethereal, stunning effect.) On the bodice there's also a layer of cream silk satin before the thick, cream silk taffeta lining.
The blousen bodice plunges in front and rear to a square neckline, with ivory re-embroidered modesty lace. The fancy salmon pink and black gossamer overlaid lapels also are overlaid with weighty, gold lame' strips, salmon pink velvet chenille "rosettes," tiny, cut silver bead "leaves." Long, Aurora Borealis iridescent beads and beaded Chemical lace flower edges the repeating patterns on both sides. The front and rear blue silk center panels have an elaborate thick beige silk floss Carrickmacross bobbin lace underlays with designs of hand-sewn pink and green flower appliques' shimmering though a layer of the Chantilly Lace. There's a smart black silk bow on the fine belt. Under the dolman sleeves are a full sleeve of extra-fine, ivory Point de' Esprit pin-tucked lace net, underlined with cream silk gossamer sheer. The 3/4 evening poufed sleeves are edged in finely pleated, accordion gossamer silk sheer, accordion black silk sheer, with two layers of variegated lengths, banded Chantilly Lace with tiny black silk satin bows matching the bowed belt. The inner bodice is made of "bow" shadow lace silk taffeta and fine linen. The skirt still retains the fullness of the period, but has the sides and rear caught up so the sides and back slightly bustles near the knees, with silk satin bustle ties (to make a more pronounced "pouf-" not tied in the photos.) and there's a layer of cream silk gossamer above the cream taffeta inner liner and bone. The under edges peek out at the sides, with 3 layers of finely pleated accordion ruffles, accordion pleated dust ruffle. A black layer of the silk sheers is over the white sheer, also with two layers of gathered black silk ruching. (Didn't I tell you it had all the delicious goodies? LOL) Make sure to look at the additional condition observations under the photo and see the links as well- you don't want to miss this!
Lovely, lovely! Presentable and surprisingly in VERY EXCELLENT condition, except for the inner silk taffeta lining (I'll explain below.) So, there's very little to mention in the way of concerns. The cotton Chantilly is very black and rich, virtually without fault I can find (it is lace however, and should be always considered more delicate than silk- just the nature of lace.) There's some localized areas as scattered shattering of the Salmon pink silk under the black gossamer (see photos), with a tiny, period mend on one shoulder that is a-nothing, but thought I'd mention it. I'd replace the salmon pink ribbon throughout with a strong one- (it's just so lovely!). There may be a few beads missing (less than 1 percent overall.) but all the beads seem firmly sewn on. Both underarms have some weakness to the ivory lace there, with medium-sized tears and yellow perspiration stains (almost always a given). I would reenforce it with some similar lace. The gossamer silk has some wear holes here and there, but it doesn't affect anything as it's used as a sandwich material (Yum! LOL) and isn't for stabilizing (nor is it that bad.) However, the pleated areas seem fine, even on the hem. The silk taffeta lining is mostly intact in the bodice, with small areas of localized shatter. I think I see an area on the bust/underarms that might have been reenforced in the past, but done so well, it might have been used to help "pad" the full bust. The silk taffeta lining from waist to hem is tattered and should be replaced or removed so it doesn't damage the silks and lace. For gown stability, if you just removed the linings you could get away with wearing, but since it's such a high class gown, I'd use the lining as a pattern and reuse the bodice bones and the long skirt bone, or you could use a soft silk liner and that would maker this gown comfortable- either would be period correct. Was well stored- can smell the reminiscent scent of cedar. Stunning.
This item is sold and no longer available.
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|Estimated Current size Approx.:|
Unsure about size? Go to the page
|Size||Shoulders||Bust||Bodice waist||Shoulder to hem||Wear-ability||Underarm condition||Maker's Tags/Marks||Estimated condition rating||Estimated overall condition scale of 1-10|
|Medium (8-10)||15-16."||40."||28."||57."||Wear Today.||Needs fixing.||None.||Replace innards||9.|
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This item is sold and no longer available.