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Antique Victorian Bustle Dress Hem Pleats to study by Lisa Schnapp on 02-02-2009
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Photo 8: A terrific 1887 Linen summer bustle gown outfit- the pleats throughout are pintucked onto itself to create pleats (this technique becomes extremely popular throughout the late Victorian-Edwardian period.) The pleats end into a cotton lining, which makes them float and separate at the bottom. No pleats on the underskirt. Photo 9: 1882 Afternoon gown- top half of the skirt is box pleats that "bag" loosely onto the bottom half of the pleats-long, thin to thick (semi) fan pleats over tiny, unlined accordion pleats. The panel of upper pleats are loosely lined in a coarse cotton gauze mesh- softer and more flexible than the normal hair canvas. Photo 10: Beautiful 1889 silk and velvet Reception gown. There are only pleats at the sides since pleats were soon mostly discarded at the beginning of the next decade. These are unlined, but attached 2" from the hem to hip. Velvet is fully lined but attached and finished. So, if you study all these years of pleat linings, you will see that our great- great grandmother's dressmakers really how to manipulate pleats for effect- most had tapes or stitches for fullness control, some used hair canvas for body or even cotton or no lining at all!
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