item number #SOLD1089
STUNNING Edwardian 1912 Maison Ney Soeurs and Co. Juliette WEDDING GOWN
First, I have to say, this is one of the prettiest 1912 gowns I've EVER seen! The famous House of the Ney sisters gave the best of French Haute Couture houses, Worth, Poriet, Lanvin, Paquin, Calliot Soeurs, Boue' Soeurs, Lucile, among many others a run for their money, back in-the-day!
This Masion Ney Soeurs gown- dated 1912 on the Petersham along with the customer number, date and name "Juilliet" which was either a gown style name, designer name or the name of the customer. This gown had ALL the newest in French Couture details such as; a gathered knee area drape that was a VERY EARLY rendition of a gathered hobble style gown for the period- I understand that the house of Ney often used hobble style draping and the "V" front drape that's shorter in the center as a "signature" styling.
This gown also has a Grecian Column style back, real Guipure lace, and embroidering 1000+'s of petite glass pearl clusters on hand-made flowered, silk floss appliques on the wispy, ethereal fabric with a large, orange blossom cluster on the majestic flounced train. Competitor sisters Boue Soeurs, were renowned for their romantized use of lace, light colors and filmy fabrics using ribbon flower on their items also as a "signature." Calliot Soeurs liked exotic, Oriental themes and unusual combinations with Couture details for actresses and high society patrons. As you can see, this gown compared favorably to theirs! They all had such an eye for meticulous attention to detail!
The Ney sisters shop was located at 22 Vendome Place, Paris. Probably a suite inside the building as the "Van Cleef & Arpels" Jewelry shared the same address since 1906. Many articles about Neys Soeurs clothing can still be found in The Daily review (Decanter, Ill.) Sat, Nov.9th, 1907 and 1901, and the French "Femina" magazine no. 18, (which is like a French Godey's Ladies Book) besides other publications. I have to gush about the exquisite beauty of this gorgeous Edwardian wedding gown- it just floors me with the quality, styling and use of textures. My instinct tells me it was a very expensive Paris gown when new. The dress body fabric is made of a quality creme charmeuse dress weight silk satin, so it's very fluid in nature and slinky soft to the touch. The boatneck neckline has a creme pearled silk floss appliques and pearl clusters across it. There is silk net layers on the decollete' that make the gown look bare/or nude until it graduates to the "V" front. "May Manton" style draped curved brettell lapels are made of hand-tatted Guipure lace with fine, knife pleated silk net, crossing the asymmetric front where there is a large applique' on one side. Small self silk buttons line the back. 3/4 length sleeves have heavy appliques, netted pleating and more appliques under the pleats, which is a gorgeous and unusual effect I've never seen before. There is a wide self fabric belt that has a large, double bow on the back. It is overlaid with silk net in a "V" pearl floss applique edging, with hip draping, ankle draping of the netting and a slight hobble skirt effect from the heavy skirt weights. The train is long, thinner at the ankle, widening and becoming round at the end with net streamers, large bow and large cluster of waxed orange blossom. Back hook and crocheted eyes. All this was done to majestic effect.
Silk inner camisole inner liner is edged with scalloped handmade Val lace. The skirt is interlined with the charmeuse silk- Using self-fabric was very expensive to do at the time but made the gown hang beautifully. Has the prettiest inner tag I've ever seen? Brocaded in creme silk. Says: Ney Soeurs, 22 Vendome Place, Paris. Has a circle for customer information and has: Customer number, Jiulliet (name of customer, maker or style of gown) and date, 1912 in old brown ink.
Condition:
This is a gown that is above average in beauty, well made, and the charmeuse silk and belt is very structural and easily strong enough for wearing, but shouldn't...the fine silk net has fragility due to being weighted with heavily beaded hand basted appliques around the neck. (And probably shouldn't ever be worn as it is such an important maker at the time.) Best as a display. These "fragile" ethereal silk net portion of these gowns were made to fail eventually as they were supposed to only be worn once for the wedding or event. The train is also excellent, the under silk chiffon is superb. The large wax orange blossoms are vibrant and better than usually seen. I usually see them when they are faded and falling apart.
This item is sold and no longer available.
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| Size | Maker's Tags/ Marks | Estimated condition rating | Estimated overall condition scale of 1-10 | | Medium (10) | "Maison Ney Soeurs and Co. | Excellent. | 8.999 |
This item is sold and no longer available.
| Our Explanation of item's grading terms: | | MINT; | NEAR MINT; | EXCELLENT; | VERY GOOD; | GOOD; | FAIR; | POOR; | | Like brand new. | No noticeable stains or tears (or VERY tiny or FAINT), a gentle touch of wear. | Light wear, minimal faint stain or two, less than 1." Nothing distracting.
| Used gently, minor spots or wear. Sound structure. Nothing visually detracting. | Used, but still has life, spotting, wear or fraying. Visual problems but structure sound. | Used, so-so condition but usable, heavy spotting, fraying, still useful for the creative. | Heavily used, stained, worn or split, a pattern, project, or a cutter. |
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