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item number #LISA1006
MAGNIFICENT Civil War 1860's Bronze Copper and Cobalt blue CHANGEABLE silk Brocade dress This is a fabulous example of a Civil War summertime dinner dress made for a married lady (who enjoyed watching heads turn as she walked into a room!) or even a fancy traveling dress. The soft iridescent molten bronzy-copper and cobalt blue, blue-violet silk-satin and taffeta weave brocade in a fan leaf motif shimmers and changes from light to dark as the light changes. There's a heavy weight silk-satin dotted and patterned wide bow at the round neck and matching epaulets across each shoulder, I assume for effect since they are so similar in color. Three blue and rust watered silk grograin bands cross the gathering on the dropped sleeves that make the upper sleeve form-fitting. This original trimming is echoed on the pagoda sleeves which has wrist slits and self piping, displaying white silk taffeta with extra fine snowy ruffled edges. This two piece dress is incredibly lightweight, without boning, and is hand stitched in construction. The skirt is simple and full, with cartridge pleating around the waist and brass hook and eyes for closures. Simple glazed cotton lining. White for the bodice, beige and golden tan on the skirt. The effect is elegant and rich without becoming fussy.
Condition:
I cannot rave enough about the unbelievable fabric of this dress! Must have been costly at the time, due to the electric colors. I just don't see them like this anymore! There's little to mention here about condition. This novelty silk seems to be mostly in fantastic condition. I noticed one eraser head sized rub hole at one of the waist opening points (where the round waisted bodice and skirt meet there's a tiny amount of wear) and 1" of rubbing near it (see photos). Someone had put the epaulets on the shoulders on at a later time (well done, but they used a sewing machine) and I assume the bow was probably added at that time, but these are both Civil War fabrics also, so it's possible it may have been added not much later (they look to me to have been there for. There's of course, underarm lightening- which is yellowed faded, and discolored moderately (on both sides, and lightly water spotted on the inside, which also has a few age related dark spots with 3-4 very tiny holes in them) with a few slight wearing areas there that haven't become holes. Someone used period trim on a (2 to 2 1/2") area there and I can only guess that they were reenforcing under the arms. I've had this dress for many years (I purchased it from a dealer who had bought it from a museum auction), and when I put the dress on the mannequin, I just now noticed a 8" period mend across the skirt. It's pretty hard to spot due to the busy pattern, so in my opinion, it does not distract. One the fine white silk trim there are a few tiny areas missing from the fine ruffles there. There's a tiny soil spot and a few very minor snagged threads on the skirt. There's also some very minor wearing spots on the hem and some threads there. I also think that the waistband of the skirt was let out at a later time with a similar fabric (perhaps when the epaulets were added?). In all, a great dress that has much life left, and would be fabulous for a collection! Wearable in condition. Could accommodate a fuller bust, made for a petite lady under 5"5."
Price is: $1495.
For ordering, go to "Order this item" toward bottom of page.

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Estimated Current size Approx.:
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| Size | Shoulders | Bust | Waist | Estimated Length from top of shoulder tip to bottom of hem | Estimated Wear-ability | Estimated Underarm condition | Maker's Tags/ Marks | Estimated condition rating | Estimated overall condition scale of 1-10 | | Small (2-3) | 16." | 30." Max. | 24" Max. | 54." | Terrific. | Underarm discoloring | None. | VERY EXCELLENT. | 9 3/4 |
Questions on this item? Please email Lisa at bonnet@interx.net
ORDER this item from Lisa
| Our Explanation of item's grading terms: | | MINT; | NEAR MINT; | EXCELLENT; | VERY GOOD; | GOOD; | FAIR; | POOR; | | Like brand new. | No noticeable stains or tears (or VERY tiny or FAINT), a gentle touch of wear. | Light wear, minimal faint stain or two, less than 1." Nothing distracting.
| Used gently, minor spots or wear. Sound structure. Nothing visually detracting. | Used, but still has life, spotting, wear or fraying. Visual problems but structure sound. | Used, so-so condition but usable, heavy spotting, fraying, still useful for the creative. | Heavily used, stained, worn or split, a pattern, project, or a cutter. |
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